I think you were wise to ‘exercise caution’ based on your observation. Constant changing is definitely abnormal – (at a steady state RPM or LOAD condition). Otherwise it would be difficult to judge – as the ECU maintains a dimensional table for storing current trim values if RPM and Load conditions are constantly changing, you don’t know WHAT would be normal for THAT condition. But at any steady state RPM or LOAD conditions or at idle they should be quiet steady – even if slightly “+” or “-“. But at steady state, the ECU was unable to find and establish an optimum fuel delivery pulse width. My guess, an injector that wasn’t delivering a constant amount of fuel for a given injector pulse width might be causing this.

BTW – you can read custom PIDs with Torque – if you research online for the specific vehicle type, there are a number of PIDs that can help car purchasers catch a salesman RED HANDED.

ie:Number of drive cycles since MIL RESET
Miles driven with MIL lit
Number of miles since MIL RESET
Number of drive cycles since MIL RESET
DTC History – or continuous code count
Total number of misfires – last 10 drive cycles.

And perhaps others for a given vehicle mfg/model.

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I have sorta’ come to realize it is virtually impossible to do any ONE FITS ALL in the area of a OBDII app itself, or User’s Manual, or video as you suggest. There are SO MANY variations in vehicles, models within a specific vehicle, and even options. ie: Ford Powerstroke diesel w/ glow plugs, direct injection, turbo versus a F150 with 5.4L 3v w/ gas, EFI, and variable valve timing. Then there is Honda Prias electric.

90% of the problem is the different sensor and OBDII parameters available in a person’s specific vehicle. I have discovered over 300 for my 2004 F150. Then finding out what each one IS, and a formula for them —- Wow. It’s a massive chore just for ‘one’ vehicle, then most of the PID’s do not work or apply on my wife’s Buick Enclave!

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