Hi

@niceguy
Your boost adjustment should be 0, putting a value in for an audi isn’t required and will throw out the calculation depending on what sensors are used (it’s only required for some mitsubishi vehicles using MAP sensors)

Also make sure ‘Disable ELM327 auto timing adjust’ is un-ticked

The calculation for boost using MAF in the app is good, and the MAF sensor is standardised through all vehicles (it’s part of the OBD2 specification), about the only thing that can throw the value out is a bad adapter or MAF sensor (which the reading is based on)

At idle, it will always show a negative reading for petrol vehicles, this is perfectly normal (and correct for petrol engines), it will then go towards 0 as you accelerate, and if you ‘boot it’, and cause your turbo to spool up, will go positive

@godzirro
Can you do the following:

Go into the general settings, and enable debugging
Restart the app, connect to the OBD2 with the engine at idle
wait about 30 seconds with it displaying the boost reading in the realtime information screen
Then press menu->more…->send debugging information. Make sure you put your forum name in the text box that pops up and then press send/ok

I’ll have a look at the debug here and try to get to the bottom of what’s going on eith that for you

Sorry I just saw this suggestion. I will try that but it will show a negative reading at just idle. I will take care of it in a bit though.

Quote from admin on March 15, 2012
Hi

At idle, it will always show a negative reading for petrol vehicles, this is perfectly normal (and correct for petrol engines), it will then go towards 0 as you accelerate, and if you ‘boot it’, and cause your turbo to spool up, will go positive

Thanks for the reply. I set the boost adjustment to 0 and the “disable ELM327 auto timing adjustment” is unchecked.
At idle and during accelerating it still shows a vacuum, only when i gun it will it show a spike at 3psi.

I ran a ross-tech vag-com just to check if there was a boost leak and the actual boost is very similar to the boost requested. At idle the vag-com shows 14.7psi and >3000rpm i am steady at 18psi. Vag-com also didn’t show any stored error that had to do with the MAF so i am just assume the MAF is fine.

If i were to changed the displacement to 1.0 i get somewhat of a better reading.
What do you think is wrong?
THanks

@godzirro Got the debug, thanks

Your adapter appears to be having issues:

1331853738013 – 0100
1331853738062 – 0080
1331853738062 – +4100BE1DA813
1331853738062 – +0080
1331853738092 – +0080
1331853738092 – +0080
1331853738122 – +0080
1331853738122 – +0080
1331853738123 – +0080
1331853738142 – +0080
1331853738142 – +0080
1331853738172 – +0080
1331853738173 – +0080
1331853738173 – +0080
1331853738202 – +0080
1331853738202 – +0080

– The ‘+0080’ should not be present for the 0100 request and this can mess up the init of displays in Torque, also it’s something that happens in the middle of talking to the vehicle which is where the 54psi boost is coming from as it happens smack in the middle of 2 reads from the adapter causing a pause in a timing critical section of code

Unfortunately there’s not much I can do about this (I will however try to include this in the error counter now I have seen this type of problem). I would suggest getting a replacement adapter as it appears to be the cause of the issue in this case

Hi!

Do you have a link (to a picture) of the adapter you purchased so I can see which one it is? (in the debugs it’s identifying as an ELM 1.5 (which don’t exist as ELM haven’t released a 1.5 chip, only a 1.4b) – see: http://www.elmelectronics.com/obdic.html (scroll down to the ‘please note’ section)

The adapter I use myself is the OBDLink MX, which is very well built (based on the scantool STN11xx chip) and I have not had any issues with it, obviously it’s a little more expensive than the clones, but that is reflected in the build quality (and most importantly the reliability). I used to use the larger OBDLink adapter before that for similar reasons (and the fact these guys have good support for their adapters). On newer vehicles (using canbus like the juke) these adapters are very quick at retrieving data as well (when compared to the clones)

The clone adapters can also be good if you get a good one, but as you have found there are also ‘not so good’ ones floating around. It’s more luck of the draw with these adapters. You may find that it works perfectly fine on a different vehicle (using a different protocol as different protocols use different parts of the board in the adapter)

The OBDKey works, seems to be reliable and is a U.K. adapter, but it’s not as fast as the clones and definitely not as fast as the OBDLink MX in the unit I have here (OBDKey using 1.30 firmware). Again, as it’s properly built and more importantly tested like the OBDLink adapters, it is more expensive than the clones.

Hi

Hopefully an exchange will sort the adapter out and it’s just a dud

The vehicle will only support one protocol – likely to be can-bus in your case for the Juke. The adapters talk multiple protocols as different manufacturers originally used differing protocols to talk to the ECU, hence the need

Well on the hopeful bright side they are sending me a replacement so hopefully it was just a dud.

Hello.

I just bought the pro version of the app, it is great. I’m using it in a 2006 Mazda3 with the PLX Kiwi.

I have a question: I live am in Bogota at 2600m (8500ft). Should I change any of the parameters for a correct calculation of the vaccum?

Thanks!

Thanks for the infomation! I’ll check and adjust it.