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Torque » Torque OBD ECU Scanner » Torque Discussion / Ideas » E46-M54-MS43 Ratchetting noise from E-box - No crank/No start

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Author Topic: E46-M54-MS43 Ratchetting noise from E-box - No crank/No start
MAV4692
Member
Posts: 1
Post BMW E46 with M54/MS43 - No crank & No start after PID test
on: December 11, 2024 (GMT)

Hey Everyone,

This weekend curiosity got the better of me, and I decided to try monitoring the Engine Oil Temperature on the M54. Both INPA and PA Soft show this value in the DME’s live data, so I figured, “Why not get this data into Torque Pro on my Android head unit?”

Torque Pro has a built-in “Engine Oil Temperature” display option, but for our cars, it just stays at zero. I thought I was a good idea trying an idiotic custom PID I found in a YouTube tutorial (Oil Temp Gauge w/Torque Pro – Motorvate’s DIY) but it was a big mistake. The PIDs I used was 22111f or 22211f and it was meant for Nissan, not BMW! (I was inside the car, following the tutorial from the phone without audio, excuses, excuses, and more excuses :() , and now the car won’t crank. At all.

Of course, I reverted everything in Torque Pro, deleted the custom PIDs, and even cleared the app’s data. But, as Bon Jovi’s song says “no one can save me, the damage is done…”

Here’s what I’ve tried so far:
– Battery voltage shows 12.6 V
– Disconnected the battery for a few hours.
– Verified Terminal 15 voltage with PA soft (shows 11.7 after playing for a while with INPA/ PA soft)
– Re-synced the EWS and DME using PA Soft.
– Checked and cleared all DTCs in the DME and EWS.
– Checked OK all 5 DME fuses (E-box)
– Checked OK fuses 27, 29 and 30 from the fuses in the glove-box.
– Tried different keys.
– Hooked a multi-meter to the stud of the starter and when I turn the key to ignition, I get 12V on the EWS connector, but I get nothing from the DME connector

Still no crank.

Due to the PA-soft reads and the multi-meter test I discard EWS related issues, and also as (as far as I’m aware) Torque or Torque pro can only access the DME… PA-soft also showed the key details and the terminal 15 is also fine.
The car was running fine until I messed with this PID in torque app via OBD, so I’m confident it’s a software/signal-related issue.

If anyone’s been down this rabbit hole before or has some solid advice, please share it here. Also, for the record, I’m not interested in reading “take it to a dealer” or other rich-kid “solutions” Let’s keep this smart and DIY-friendly. ? Thanks in advance for any tips—your experience might save my sanity!

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